Kakheti is where most Georgian wine comes from, and much of it is still made the old way, in qvevri: clay vessels buried in the ground. The tradition is on UNESCO's list of intangible heritage.
We drive east to Bodbe Monastery, where St Nino is buried, then on to Sighnaghi, a hilltop town inside old walls with views across the Alazani Valley to the Caucasus. On the way back there is time for a tasting at a family winery.



